We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday we share five standout pieces with you.
The sports watch market continues to soften as we enter late summer, and Rolex prices continue to drop accordingly. We’ve curated great deals on sports watches like the Rolex GMT Master, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and (pre-TAG) Heuer chronographs. Of all the watches we’ve analyzed, only the steel Rolex Daytona and the small, dressy Cartier Tank are holding value. We’ve even asked whether Rolex shorts the new watchmarket to drive Certified Pre-Owned sales, but even there prices are falling in favor of buyers (well, unless it’s a Daytona).
We’ve used data to drive our analysis, and data has served us well so far. However, when it comes to the vintage Rolex Submariner reference 1680, the data is scrambled. We can tell you with confidence that overall the prices have fallen on vintage Subs, but the sheer variability of condition, provenance, documentation, and especially small features that make a Rolex more or less valuable, jumble the dataset. This variability, however, is also what makes collecting vintage Rolex Subs a bit risky and—perhaps for that reason—so much fun.
To narrow our list this week, we will look only at the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 (and one 16808), which all include a date window and cyclops. We have also looked for exceptional examples, rather than especially low prices, and we’ve curated from across the spectrum of variations, from the famous Red Sub to monochrome examples and solid gold models. This strategy gives us not only a fun and interesting list, but a wide overview of how varied the reference 1680s were during the 1970s, when these watches were becoming must-haves for both the preppy-set and the disco-set (whose mutual lust for cocaine gold Rolexes would fuse them together as Yuppies in the 1980s).
As for its relevance now, there is a reason that the Rolex Submariner remains ubiquitous. Setting aside its actual SCUBA accomplishments and what the Sub has meant for the dive watch genre as a whole, you’re left with one of the best all around watches money can buy. It goes with seemingly everything, it’s comfortable, and it’s practical. It is the embodiment of the “go anywhere, do anything” ethos. You see Subs everywhere you go, and that’s because they just work.
The Sub didn’t start life quite as practical, however. From its inception in the early 1950s, it would take over 15 years for the collection to receive a date complication. This would come in 1969 with the new reference 1680 that we’re considering here. With a date complication, the Submariner would find its footing with a new generation of customers and quickly become one of the all-time great everyday watches. We’re only looking at those “date Subs” here.
Given the Sub’s incredible pedigree—we could even say fame—as well as its wide variability, we’ve simply curated five of our favorite reference 1680 examples currently on the market. Enjoy!
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 ‘Red’ Mk IV | $33,350
The Submariner date began life in 1969 with the reference 1680 that featured a single red line of text at the bottom of the dial. History would come to know these early Sub date models as 1680 “red” references, or more commonly as as “a red Sub.” This feature can also be found in the Sea-Dweller collection during the same period. By the mid 1970s, after six slightly different iterations, the red dial gave way to a fully white white dial, but it is these early 1680 red Subs that most entice enthusiasts and collectors today for their somewhat odd inclusion of color. As one collector noted, “A dash of red text can make a grown man swoon.”
This example, which is available from H.Q. Milton features a Mk IV dial with a 2.2M serial case, making it one of the earliest such examples we’ve seen. The Mk IV dial is unique for being the first to layout the depth rating using the measurement in feet before the measurement in meters, known as a “feet first” dial. The number 6 in the depth rating text are also slightly open, and the word Submariner is printed in red over a white base, which gives it a bit more pop at a glance. This example features a case that retains many of its original lines, and is offered as a full kit, with box, papers, and even coming with the hang tag. The bezel inserts on these references are easy to swap, but this example gets a beautifully faded option that pairs well with the matching hands and hour markers. This is what a red Sub should look like!
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 ‘Red’ MkV | $24,850
The final appearances of so-called ‘red’ dials within the 1680 reference generally appear in the 4.0M serial number range, which runs right up to 1974. MkV and Mk VI are the final regular production red dials, and they represent the most common of the production span. These dials are “feet first” and get a slightly more closed 6 in the depth rating. The red Submariner is also printed directly onto the dial rather than over a white base. The Mk IV dial in particular is a transition to fully closed ‘6’s and presents an interesting point in the short evolution of the ‘red’ dial.
This 1680 red Sub, available from Tropical Watch, features a Mk IV dial and has a 3.0M serial number case, correctly placing it at 1972 in production. The hour markers and hands show matching age, which has taken it to a creamy off-white color against the matte black base. The case here looks like it has seen a refinishing, but does show signs of age which is a good thing. The lines are sharp and it looks to be in great condition for regular usage. This is paired with a nearly fully black bezel insert that matches the dial perfectly. Overall a beautiful example that would make for a great regular-wear candidate.
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 ‘White’ | $14,200
By 1974, Rolex had transitioned the 1680 to largely white dials, meaning the ‘Submariner’ at the bottom of the dial was printed in white. Not much else has changed, with the watch still using the caliber 1575 within a 40 mm steel case, but the difference in prices that comes from the small bit of red text is staggering. All the charm of the 1680 remains in the white dial examples, however, and it represents a huge amount of value in the world of collecting vintage Rolex that can still be enjoyed without too much stress. We personally enjoy the 1680 white for its understated personality, as it fits the overall ethos of the collection.
This 1680 “white,” available from Matthew Bain, is a lovely example from 1977. The case looks untouched, with all of its original lines still intact. More importantly, the dial is original and shows an even amount of age throughout. When it comes to vintage Rolex, the dial is the most important element, and this one checks all the right boxes. An additional detail that I love about this example is the personalized engraved caseback, which is ambiguous enough to not be too personal, but sentimental enough to bring a nice story to the table around this watch. Overall, a beautiful example of the most classic example of the 1680.
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680/8 | $41,350
When the Submariner got a date complication in the 2.0M serial range, it also welcomed precious metal case references with the 1680/8. This was a true expansion of the concept of the Submariner, and this vision persists to this day. The gold 1680 references welcomed a black dial and black bezel, along with a blue dial and blue bezel. The colors weren’t the only difference however, as the hour markers also welcomed a new variation that would foreshadow a change coming to the collection as a whole. The hour markers on these precious metal references were ringed in precious metal, and raised up off the dial. These so-called “nipple dials” would give way to the precious metal surrounds on subsequent generations of the Submariner in any metal.
This 1680/8 is a beautiful example of a gold case with black dial and black bezel, and its serial number dates it to the late ‘70s, meaning it gets an applied gold Rolex crown at 12 o’clock. The case and bracelet here are in exceptional condition, and the dial shows minimal signs of age, which may make this more of a “safe queen” as the saying goes, but if you ask us, giving it a life on the wrist is the best option here. This watch comes with its box and pamphlet, and represents a stunning example of the 1680 in a newly discovered gold frame.
Rolex Submariner ref. 16808 | $44,000
Finally, we enter the transitional realm that bridged the four-digit references to the five-digit references. This period, while brief, brought some important changes to the Submariner. The most notable is the shift to a flat sapphire crystal, and the bump to a 100ft/300m depth rating. These qualities are still present in the modern Submariner. These five-digit changes are present within the four-digit dial era for a limited production span (roughly 1979 to 1983 or 4), making these “transitional Subs” exceptionally interesting to enthusiasts and collectors alike.
This reference 16808 available from Wind Vintage is a particularly interesting example for the manner in which the dial has aged. These blue dials of the ‘70s and ‘80s can turn purple and the sunburst texture only exacerbates this effect. This particular example features an untouched case, and a full kit documenting its history. It may not be as old as the other watches on this list, but it represents an important part of Submariner history in beautifully preserved condition. That crazy aging of the dial with nipple markers has us thinking this is one rare bird.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
Authors
Blake Buettner
