This Iconic French Dive Watch Finally Got the Movement It Deserves

As the saying goes, “Good things come to those who wait.” If you’re a French dive watch fan, the wait is over.

Yema introduced the remarkably thin CMM.20 micro-rotor automatic movement in 2022, and it has finally been installed in a regular production model of the French watchmaker’s most iconic dive watch.

The Superman Skin Diver is dripping with retro appeal, originating from the golden age of sporty dive watches in the 1960s. It is highlighted by the trapezoidal hour markers with stylized numerals set at three, six, nine and twelve o’clock.

Along with the upgraded engine, there are three gorgeous matching dial and bezel colors. A polished black version matches previous Yema dive watches, but the burgundy and creamy tan offerings come with vertically brushed dials that enhance the vintage styling.

The CMM.20, which stands for Calibre Manufacture Monteau 20, is a streamlined version of a typically high-end micro-rotor movement. Simply put, the rotor (or counterbalance) is placed alongside the other movement components rather than below it, saving a couple of millimeters of vertical space.

It was developed in 2022 with the assistance of a Kickstarter campaign and is now produced entirely in Yema’s Monteau, France factory. Despite being only 3.7mm thick, the CMM.20 movement has a -3/+7 accuracy and a 70-hour power reserve.

Historically, thin cases were an important attribute of skin diver watches because they cut down on drag in the water. This was originally achieved with hand-wound movements, but the Skin Diver CMM.20 has a slim 11mm case thanks to Yema’s new movement.

The CMM.20 was utilized in a limited edition Skin Diver in 2024, with a gray dial and faux patina hour markers that matched references from the 1960s.

Another trick subtly tucked away on the Skin Diver CMM.20 bezel is a new locking mechanism. Yema’s old proprietary bezel lock, which was integrated with the crown and required its unscrewing to disengage, is gone.

The new bezel lock works similarly to the child safety lid on certain bottles. Pushing it down allows the bezel to rotate in both directions to the desired time, and then releasing it locks the bezel in place.

In keeping with the slimmed-down Skin Diver CMM.20 case, Yema’s signature steel scales bracelet, which has appeared on dive watches since the 1960s, has been winnowed down to a 0.4mm thickness.

Those performance features are fantastic, but the Skin Diver dial still steals the show. Most mid-century retro dive watches use flashy colors for a sporty look, but Yema references the classy aspect of that era.

The Skin Diver CM.20 is befitting of an age when men wore suits for half their lives and rarely left home without at least a collared shirt on. Monotone color schemes and a polished steel finish are befitting of dress watches, but the playful geometry of the dial keeps things casual.

Vertical brushing on the cream and burgundy dials resembles lacquered wood. Combined with the trapezoidal applied indices indicative of the Skin Diver, it looks like a dart board from the 1960s.

Yema’s signature Superman hands–the large triangle-tipped minute hand, small pointed hour hand and lollipop second hand–are the watch’s definitive visual feature. Each is coated with Super-Luminova, along with the hour markers and the 60-minute marker on the bezel.

Now that Yema’s impressive proprietary movement is finally paired with its most iconic dial design, it is hard not to think of the Skin Diver CMM.20 as the French watchmaker’s signature reference. It embodies the brand’s sophisticated yet sporty vibe while showcasing its innovative spirit and impressive functionality.

The Yema Skin Diver CMM.20 is available now from Yema for $2,490.

The three dial color options are brushed creamy tan, brushed burgundy and glossy black. Each comes on the new slimmed-down steel scales bracelet with a three-piece clasp. At the time of launch, the limited edition gray dial reference from 2024 is still available.

According to a notice on Yema’s product pages, as of April 15, the French brand is not charging any additional fees or raising costs to cover tariffs for American customers. All costs are being absorbed by the watchmaker as a show of good faith.

Automatic Watches, Dive Watches